3D printing has turned a crucial corner and its true potential is just beginning
to be realised. Since the technology was first paraded to the resounding 'oohs'
and 'ahhs' of the design world, material science has advanced sufficiently to
threaten the more traditional technique of injection molding as being a thing
of the past. The upsetting of this balance can be pinpointed to the advent of
Multi Material 3D Printing Technology (MM3DPT). Where once you could only print
with a specific polymer type (as limited as using only a black ink cartridge in
a traditional printer) MM3DPT allows for the combination of different polymers through
photopolymerization to create different materials with different properties. In
the context of shoe design this allows for the shoe to have a hard sole and
flexible upper thus not compromising the comfort and performance of the shoe
for the wearer.
Technicalities
aside, I want to discuss the impact that MM3DPT will have on the sneaker
community. It is safe to say that sneaker design has been all embracing of new technologies
and more often than not has placed itself at the forefront of these
innovations. Nike’s Innovation Kitchen should be enough of a prompt to remind
us of the relentless pace that new technologies, materials and designs are made
commercially available for the sneaker consumer. What has become evident with MM3DPT
is that this quick fire method of designing is breaking away from the traditional approach to
shoe design. This is by no means a bad thing for the conventional approach
begins with hand sketches on paper, which are reviewed and revised several
times over until a product concept is approved. The upper materials are then
sourced and the concept sent to a shoe factory, taking several weeks for the
sample show to arrive. The sample is then reviewed and original sketches once
again revised and modified prototypes ordered until the final product design is
reached. This is simply not time efficient. The new way would see the initial paper sketch designs moved to 3D CAD software where designs can be manipulated with minimal
effort until product managers are happy with the on-screen concept. And then
with the simple push of a button a prototype shoe can be quickly printed in the
design office, shrinking labour hours significantly. Deconstructing the
design process in such a methodical way may seem somewhat futile, but in
relation to the sneaker consumer, a quicker design process equates to greater
numbers of models, colourways and new designs made available to purchase.
Having
read Brett Golliff’s article on the future implications of Nike’s FlyKnit
technology, the development and marketing landscape for sneakers is radically
going to change within the next few years. Nike’s material development team has
unearthed some extraordinary discoveries in recent memory. Vac Tech, Hyperfuse,
Flywire and FlyKnit have made a precedent for the new direction that sneaker
design is heading. Construction methods and materials used in the 90’s and mid
2000’s are becoming increasingly obsolete due to the rise in synthetic
materials, purpose designed for specific models and releases. But this is not
to say that materials like leather and the craftsmanship that is required in
making a leather shoe is going to be forgotten. Retro releases, bespoke
programes, PE’s and commemorative limited editions are always going to be part
of Nike’s makeup and heritage. But rather than producing them as they do today, within the
nest 10 years these shoes will become even more of a bespoke and collectible. In the same way
that there is a price to be paid for hand made commodities (especially shoes)
there will be increased numbers of Nike boutiques, possibly modeled on the likes
of 21 Mercer St in New York, acting as skilled cobblers ready to make on demand the historic
sneakers of yester year.
